DAZZLING DAYLILIES
General information on growing daylilies, from Pam Erikson of Erikson's Daylily Gardens, Langley, B.C. 
There should be a sign attached to daylilies when you buy them, saying "Caution! These plants can be addictive!" Over the past few years, what started out as a hobby has turned into more than a full time occupation for me! It's not difficult to get carried away by a plant that is hardy, weather tolerant and pest and disease free! For those of you currently growing daylilies, or people who want to try some - the following information might be useful and interesting to you!
Daylilies are herbaceous perennials. Though a member of the Liliaceae family, they are not true lilies. They are sold as roots, not bulbs, and they multiply very quickly. Their botanical name is "hemerocallis" and is taken from two Greek words meaning "beauty" and "day" or "beauty for a day". This explains the flowering habit, with each flower staying open for one day, maybe two in very cool weather. This habit also has a tendency to lead people to think that in a few days, the plant will be finished! Definitely not so! Each flowering scape (the stem supporting the flowers) can carry 40 - 60 buds, and with a plant producing 10 - 20 of those scapes - that is one heck of a lot of flowers! And since daylilies come in a range of flowering times from May to October, a gardener can have a fabulous array of color throughout the entire season simply by planting a variety of different blooming-time cultivars!
Daylilies originated in Asia many years ago, and really did not become a popular plant until hybridzers in the United States started making great progress in producing different colors, heights and forms. Since about 1930, many thousands of cultivars have been introduced to make over a staggering 38,000 varieties to date! Daylilies are now available in all color ranges, with the exception of true blue, with an incredibly diverse range of forms - round and ruffled, elegant long-petalled spiders, and doubles that resemble carnations or roses. A great many varieties also carry some fragrance - usually the yellows or paler cultivars. Daylily foliage varies from the small grass-like fountain leaves of the miniatures to the wider and more robust leaves of the taller and tetraploid varieties. (Tetraploids being double-chromosomed daylilies). Also look for "rebloomers" - this being a variety that will flower midseason, July, then rebloom again later in the fall months! This is a wonderful quality that not too many perennials have!
Daylilies are very hardy plants - which is why we recommend them to gardeners dealing with colder climates. Most are hardy to zone 2, although in very cold areas, we do suggest that you stick with the "dormant" varieties. Daylilies are listed in three categories - dormant, semi-evergreen and evergreen. Most of the cultivars hybridized in the southern United States are semi or evergreen. Dormant varieties have even been known to be better in the north as they like to take a rest during the cold season! For us here in B.C. - we grow from all the categories with no trouble - simply by treating them ALL as dormants! The semi and evergreen varieties are simply a little more tender in cold weather, and a light covering of leaves or straw would be beneficial if you are in an area that gets below -15C.
As for cultural requirements, these plants are true survivors - but by giving them a few simple things, they will reward you with years of color and beauty! They prefer a sunny location, with a minimum of three to four hours of sunshine. The darker colors - reds, purples, etc - would actually like afternoon shade protection, so a sunny morning spot for them would be best. They like to get enough moisture and regular watering will keep your foliage green and lush right through until late fall. If however, you must go away on holiday or are not able to work in the garden for a while - they ARE drought tolerant plants and may look a little sad upon your return - but will ALWAYS recover! An early spring fertilizing of a well balanced 10-10-10 would benefit, or my personal favorite - a top dressing between the plants of some good old compost! Don't pile the compost on top of the plant though - the daylily crown (where the roots and foliage join) does not like to be too far below the surface. (When planting originally - keep the crown about one inch from the surface). In the fall, I try to feed a 4-15-6 rose-type fertilizer around the garden - good for root building for the next spring! As for diseases and pests - not too much to look out for, other than the dreaded slug! I highly recommend cleaning the dead foliage from your plants in January/February, just before the new fresh shoots begin to appear - those are like cheesecake for slugs!!
When the daylily clump becomes quite large, usually in about three to five years, depending on the variety - you will need to dig it up and divide it. Simply wash off the roots and you will see a root system that resembles fingers linked together! They are joined at the base of the plant or the crown. If the plant is VERY large, you may just cut it in two at the crown. If you wish to be a little more careful, then gently pull the fans apart. Each individual piece of the plant is referred to as a "fan". Each fan will have their own root system, so it is easy to share them with friends!
One last note - the daylily is edible! Try dressing up a summer green salad with bright red daylilies! Or you can steam the daylily buds just as you would snow peas! And to top it off - the large water nodules of the root system can be chopped up and used as a substitute for radishes! So - if you turn into a total daylily addict like me - you may have to eat your plants for a while when you spend all the household budget on new cultivars! Enjoy!
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